87-90 points - Allen Meadows
In many ways Gevrey produces the primordial red Burgundy: Burgundy that defines the style of other communes, by comparison, Burgundy that marries true power and structure with elegance and perfume. This is mountain Pinot, from rocky soils high up on the Côte, just below the woods. Gevrey is also the most northerly of the famed Côte d’Or villages and it is this northern climate, along with the many high, windswept vineyards that gives this commune’s wines their often “pretty yet firm” personality when they are young. Gérard Harmand and his son Philippe produce archetypal Gevrey Chambertin from a superb range of terroirs. They have remarkable, old vine holdings in Lavaux St Jacques, Champeaux, Perrière and La Bossiere (Monopole), as well as a healthy slice of the Grand Cru Mazis Chambertin. If you love classic Gevrey with site transparency, lifted aromatics, fresh, crunchy fruit and fine, powdery tannins, then these wines are for you.
The lieu-dit of En Jouise lies at the heart of the appellation, below the village, a little under the Harmand's parcel in 1er Cru La Perrière. The average age of the vines is now pushing an impressive average of 65 years. There is more structure than the wine above, but also more fruit weight and the tannins are very, very fine. The domaine's two lieux-dits wines see a little more oak than the blended village wine, though once again the natural depth of the wine's fruit mops up the 30% new oak like a sponge. The note below sums things up well."Here there is enough reduction present to push what appears to be ripe fruit to the background. Otherwise the delineated and sleekly textured medium-bodied flavors possess that lovely sense of underlying tension though once again they are not especially dense. I do however like the refined mouth feel as well as the better than average depth on the saline-inflected finale." 87-90 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound, Issue 61
Please note that the vintage may differ from the picture featured.
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